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| Description: In deep areas, movement of water within a wave is circular, but the size of the circle decreases downward to a depth of about half a wavelength. As waves approach shore and reach areas where the water depth is less than half a wavelength, movement within the wave becomes increasingly elliptical. Slowed by friction with the bottom, the troughs travel more slowly than the crests, causing the wave’s height to increase and its wavelength to decrease
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