Author Question: What causes a wave to break when it reaches shore? What will be an ideal ... (Read 46 times)

tfester · **on:** Jul 15, 2018

What causes a wave to break when it reaches shore? What will be an ideal response?

Question 2

Describe how waves are generated. What will be an ideal response?

bfulkerson77 · **Reply #1 on:** Jul 15, 2018

Answer to Question 1

As waves enter shallow water, the broad waves of deep water become sharp-crested. This
transformation begins at wave base, one-half the wavelength. The wave feels the seafloor, and the
orbital motion at the bottom of the wave is disrupted. The wave is pushed upward by the sea bottom
and becomes oversteepened. Eventually the crest plunges forward as a breaker.

Answer to Question 2

Wind blows over water, and friction between the two transfers energy to the water, causing the water
surface to oscillate. Winds cause sharp-crested, irregular waves called seas to develop. As seas move
out of their area of generation, they are sorted into swells, with rounded long crests that are all about
the same size.