Author Question: Why are long wavelength waves considered to be the most powerful? Consider wave base in answering ... (Read 94 times)

chads108

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Why are long wavelength waves considered to be the most powerful? Consider wave base in
  answering this question. What will be an ideal response?



Question 2

What is the difference between a wave of oscillation versus a wave of translation? What will be an ideal response?



rosiehomeworddo

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Answer to Question 1

The wave base of a long wavelength wave lies at greater depth than that of a shorter wavelength wave.
This means that it will feel bottom farther off shore than shorter waves. This gives the wave more
time to build as it approaches shore and affects the underwater beach profile over a greater area.



Answer to Question 2

Waves of oscillation occur in relatively deep water, whereas waves of translation are shoreline
phenomena in shallow water. Waves of oscillation do not actually move the water mass as they pass
by, except in a circular oscillatory pattern. Waves of translation physically move shoreward and break
as the top of the wave outruns the base.




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