This topic contains a solution. Click here to go to the answer

Author Question: Describe what happens to a deep-water wave when it enters shallow water and eventually breaks. ... (Read 89 times)

Capo

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 545
Describe what happens to a deep-water wave when it enters shallow water and eventually breaks.
 
  What will be an ideal response?

Question 2

Compare shallow-water and deep-water waves.
 
  What will be an ideal response?



Related Topics

Need homework help now?

Ask unlimited questions for free

Ask a Question
Marked as best answer by a Subject Expert

Viet Thy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 329
Answer to Question 1

As a wave approaches the shoreline from deep water, the circular orbit of water molecules within the wave begins to interact with the bottom. The circular orbit flattens out and forms an ellipse. This means that the top portion of the wave is travelling faster than the bottom portion of the wave. Water piles up and when the height of the wave is 7 times the wavelength, then the water plunges forward creating breaking surf.

Answer to Question 2

Water particles in a wave travel in a circular (orbital) motion. A deep-water wave is a wave in which the water depth is greater than one-half of the wavelength. At this depth, the water is deep enough so that water travels in a circular motion without interacting with the ocean bottom. Deep-water waves travel faster than shallow-water waves because the orbital motion of deep-water waves is not affected by the seafloor. In comparison, shallow-water waves occur when the water depth is less than 1/20 of the wavelength. In shallow water, the lower wave orbitals interact with the shallow seafloor and are slowed as they their orbital paths are flattened. Thus, shallow-water waves move slower than their deep-water counterparts of the same wavelength.




Capo

  • Member
  • Posts: 545
Reply 2 on: Aug 22, 2018
Thanks for the timely response, appreciate it


triiciiaa

  • Member
  • Posts: 349
Reply 3 on: Yesterday
Wow, this really help

 

Did you know?

To maintain good kidney function, you should drink at least 3 quarts of water daily. Water dilutes urine and helps prevent concentrations of salts and minerals that can lead to kidney stone formation. Chronic dehydration is a major contributor to the development of kidney stones.

Did you know?

The types of cancer that alpha interferons are used to treat include hairy cell leukemia, melanoma, follicular non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, and AIDS-related Kaposi's sarcoma.

Did you know?

Tobacco depletes the body of vitamins A, C, and E, which can result in any of the following: dry hair, dry skin, dry eyes, poor growth, night blindness, abscesses, insomnia, fatigue, reproductive system problems, sinusitis, pneumonia, frequent respiratory problems, skin disorders, weight loss, rickets, osteomalacia, nervousness, muscle spasms, leg cramps, extremity numbness, bone malformations, decayed teeth, difficulty in walking, irritability, restlessness, profuse sweating, increased uric acid (gout), joint damage, damaged red blood cells, destruction of nerves, infertility, miscarriage, and many types of cancer.

Did you know?

Interferon was scarce and expensive until 1980, when the interferon gene was inserted into bacteria using recombinant DNA technology, allowing for mass cultivation and purification from bacterial cultures.

Did you know?

The shortest mature adult human of whom there is independent evidence was Gul Mohammed in India. In 1990, he was measured in New Delhi and stood 22.5 inches tall.

For a complete list of videos, visit our video library