Question 1
Fetch is ________.
◦ the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes
◦ the distance that wind has traveled across open water
◦ a method of shoreline erosion control
◦ the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level
Question 2
Anyone who has ever gone swimming in heavy surf will tell you that if a wave is about to crash over you, the best thing to do is dive down, under the wave. Why does this keep you from being swept up in the wave, like being in a washing machine?
◦ You dive below the shoreward moving part of the wave.
◦ You get carried sideways by a longshore current, which is better than being beaten up by the breaking wave.
◦ You dive into the rip current, which will carry you out to sea.
◦ You dive into the base of the zone of circular motion associated with the wave.
Swimming underwater at Sydney Aquarium, Australia
Myosin has two heavy chains (in two shades of pink),
Wave Refraction
Fourier series - Complex Waves: Non-sinusoidal wave patterns
Wave Basics
Wave-Cut Platform and Marine Terrace